Closet Case Patterns Cielo Top & Dress

Hello Sewers! Here is a look at my muslin-testing process to bring me to the point of stitching up my version of the Cielo Dress.

I used a cotton/linen blend fabric from Hobby Lobby to make my muslins. I used the same fabric to make two muslins. For the first one I sewed a size 12 straight from the envelope with no adjustments and no design changes. On the second muslin I used my Silhouette Pattern Armhole Templates to change up the fit in the armhole area. Take a look at my video at the end of this post to see which version I prefer. 🙂

Close up of the fabric

When I stitched the sleeves to the armholes (both versions), I used the Silhouette Patterns method of stitching with the sleeve on the bottom and the bodice on the top, which is opposite of how I was taught to insert sleeves. Sewing with the sleeve on the bottom makes it so I don’t have to stitch two rows of basting stitches and pull up the threads to fit the sleeve into the armhole area. It just naturally eases into the area beautifully.

I use LOTS of pins when I do this
If you are inserting your sleeve with this method, be certain to check underneath periodically to make certain you are not getting any of the actual sleeve caught up in the seam.
Sewing with my left hand between the bodice and the sleeve helps me feel any wrinkles or rogue fabric that might be working its way into the seam

A unique dart in this dress is the bust dart that comes in from the armhole. I’ve never seen a pattern with a dart placed at that position.

I like the design details such as the sewn down cuff and the insert in the back yoke area.

The pattern piece for the bottom half of the dress and the in-seam pockets is rather odd shaped. I have to be honest, even after reading the instructions, I wasn’t quite sure how this was going to go together!

Per the pattern instruction, I marked three sewing lines on my pattern piece (you can see them in white). I sewed the three lines with the pattern piece right side together with the bodice pattern piece. Then the fabric above those lines is folded down (so it is right side up) over those two U-shaped portions of the pattern (those are the pockets). The sewn lines form the front seam and where it is not sewn – those are the openings to the pockets. Clever..

I used my serger to sew this dress together, so all the seams are nicely finished.

Here is a video review of my Cielo Top & Dress:

Thank you for stopping by today, I appreciate the time you take to read my blog posts.

Got Your Back 2.0 – Backpack Pattern

This handy Patterns By Annie (pattern #PBA198-2) backpack pattern is a great size for everyday use, as well as for special outings. I quilted 1 1/2 yards of fabric and Soft and Stable before I cut all the pieces.

Here is a look at how I did that:

Here are some photos of the interior:

There are no exposed seams, they are all finished off with bias binding. The front exterior has a pocket with credit card slots and a flap with a magnetic closure:

The back exterior features a large zipper pocket, a carrying handle, and adjustable straps:

There is a slip pocket on each exterior side panel:

Here is a video review of the backpack:

Thank you for visiting today. Please leave your thoughts in the comment section below.

Running With Scissors, Patterns by Annie

I used one of Annie Unrein’s (Patterns by Annie) newest patterns:
Running With Scissors to sew this useful case.
The name of the pattern itself is clever,
but the assembly instructions for this one
are some of the most clever from any of the Patterns by Annie.

I started by quilting my main fabric, Soft and Stable,
and lining fabric together using my Block Rockit quilting machine.
BTW, I have my 14″ Block Rockit on a 5 foot frame.
In my opinion, that is the perfect set up for a bag maker such as myself.
The cotton quilting fabric that I use is 44/45 inches wide,
which fits perfect on the 5 foot frame.
Also, I don’t ordinarily quilt large quilts, just lap size,
so my set up stays this way all the time.
I prefer to quilt my fabrics and soft and stable all in one large piece
because cutting of all the components of the bag goes very quickly
after the fabric is all quilted.
Patterns by Annie usually follow a general set of steps.
In case you missed it, click here for my blog post on those steps.
There is an updated method of sewing the handle and “spine” support for this pattern.
It is different from other By Annie patterns that I have sewn in the past.
I really, really like the new method.
It helps keeps the top of the bag from bowing when it is filled with your supplies.
Speaking of supplies, you can fit a plethora of sewing supplies
(or whatever type of supplies you plan to carry) in this handy case.
The interior of the spine features fold-over elastic bands to hold items such as spools of thread.
And there are numerous slots and zippered pockets (vinyl, mesh, and quilted fabric).

Another plus about this pattern, is that the construction is done flat.  

← Interior

Exterior→
The zipper does not go in until the interior and exterior have been completed.
After the zipper and zipper tab are done,
the binding is added and that is the last step.
Here is what I have to say about the zipper and tab:
1.  After inserting the zipper, cut it the length instructed in the pattern,
then, if it is too long for your taste, cut a little off at a time until it is the length you wish
(for my personal taste, this zipper tail is too long, so I plan to cut it down by about half).
2.  Add a metal zipper end for a more professional touch:
Gather your zipper end supplies and mark the length of your zipper

Cut the zipper along your marked line (DO NOT use your good fabric scissors)

Roll the sides of the zipper toward the center on the wrong side of the zipper

Use a dab of glue for added security
(my favorite is Guterman HT2, available on Amazon)

Push the zipper down into the zipper end as far as it will go
and allow the glue to set for about 30 minutes

Add the teeny, tiny little screw that comes with the zipper cord end,
and tighten it down with a teeny, tiny screwdriver

Here’s what it looks like on the top side

In case you haven’t had enough of my ramblings,
here’s a video to give you a closer look at my tool case:

Thank you so much for reading my blog.
Have a terrific time sewing your own tool case.